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Beer & Brew

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August 12, 2017 by Beer & Brew

Ferminology

If language was the preserve of pedants we’d all be talking some bizarre olde worlde stuff from the Middle Ages. I understand that it develops, adapts, better serves, and modernises – and I understand to what Stormzy is referring most of the time (I’m quite street, you see).

But I’ll never speak like anybody that appears on Love Island. That version of language is trend-obsessed nonsense that meant nothing ten years ago and will mean nothing in another ten. It’s tribal and is used by insecure people to show they are relevant and modern.

I know beer styles morph with the times; an IPA is not now only herbal, grassy, or minty – or like drinking pond water from a mouldy slipper with some – now it can also be packed with citrus aroma and flavour. The terms to describe styles should also evolve; when the modern IPA was made at double the strength we called it a double IPA.

Imperial, export, sour, oak-aged, dubbel, saison, lambic, gose, juice, stout, mild; all terms which mean something, that make sense with a little explanation, and tell you about the beer. If you understand these terms you’ll know that you could never have a juice stout or an imperial mild (I can almost hear the brains of hipster microbrewers asking “or could you?”). So why is the term ‘session’ describing intensely bitter beer above 5% ABV?

Firstly, anyone built any slighter than an Irish Lions prop can’t have a session on a beer of more than 5% ABV. Let’s assume four pints of beer does not constitute a ‘session’ as this is typical intake for a moderate drinker on a night out. If I – a 6’1” seasoned drinker – spout utter drivel before falling asleep fully-clothed after five pints of 5.2% beer, then to whom does the term apply? Surely only those built like prize bulls.

Secondly, a beer of this kind should surely be easy-drinking. The trend for bitter hops means guzzling a single pint of most modern ‘session’ beers is an arduous challenge. They’re often unbalanced and have nothing smoothing the harshness – they are way too punchy for a session. They should be called ‘prolonged assault’ beer.

Finally, how irresponsible is it to suggest anyone drink more than four pints of 5.6% beer? If you feel properly woozy after three do you plough on to prove that you’re a real man? Do you knacker your liver to fulfil the brief issued by the brewery? Not me, I’ll go home to watch Newsnight, or order a Coke.

‘Session’ doesn’t mean low ABV or easy-drinking anymore, the only two things it really should mean. Have too many sessions on these beers and you won’t live long enough to find out what the next meaningless beer term is. If it really had a place in beer terminology then we’d have been drinking Heineken Session Lager, Guinness Session Stout and Hoegaarden Session Wit.

I don’t want to be salty but we should make these waste cadets and total melts pie the dodgy lingo and stop muggin’ us off. Let’s crack on with the graftin’ and get back to ‘session’ meaning, like, a 3.5% pale, you know what I mean?

Filed Under: Blog

June 28, 2017 by Beer & Brew

Sexism in Beer

As a white male with a comfortable upbringing it might be a bit cringeworthy to hear me thumping tubs or see me approaching a soap box to speak out on behalf of others. But I can’t understand how outrageously outdated attitudes are still prevalent in 2017. Beer folk are pretty liberal types, but the prejudices and numbskullery we see elsewhere pervade our world too.

Sexism is everywhere. Turn on the TV or radio and it will only take a moment to witness it in some form. Of all the moronic ways of seeing others as different or inferior, I find sexism the most shocking, perhaps because we’re not talking about cultural or hereditary differences, but HALF THE HUMAN SPECIES.

Adverts tell us to “Get some nuts” and colleagues insist we “man up”. A short time ago Yorkies were “NOT for girls”. Where I work I’m often called a “little bitch” and men will be greeted as “ladies” – as if we should feel inferior. Sexists pass this off as “tongue in cheek” and say we take it all too seriously. They think Fosters adverts are relevant and didn’t see the harm in Page 3. They don’t see the ugly hangover of laddism and its many precursors in mainstream media.

They will argue that things have never been better for women, that Fuller’s have appointed a female Head Brewer. To suggest unfair treatment today pales in comparison to the past is not an argument at all, caveperson!

Some brewers are living in the dark ages. Flying Dog make Raging Bitch, Route 2 Brewery gave their range overtly sexual names such as Leg Spreader and Panty Peeler. What kind of redneck cretin are they targeting?

It can be less obvious. Pin ups have been given something approaching innocence and nostalgia. Castle Rock Brewery are one among many that have capitalised on this, pushing the boundaries of what ‘pin up’ means, with boobs bigger than were ever depicted on the side of bombers appearing on pump badges.

It doesn’t matter that women work in these breweries. Many women are not feminists, just as many Christians don’t forgive, or love thy neighbour. Just as I am a man and don’t shout at footballers on TV.

Alan Clark, then head of SABMiller, called for the end of such marketing in 2015 – shortly after a beer called Mouth Raper was released by Hop Valley. USING RAPE TO SELL BEER?! This argument has rolled on for years.

There is also an increasing machismo throughout the beer industry. I gravitate towards women and unthreatening men when it comes to my social group, so MEN seem strange and shocking to me. There aren’t many, but they make more noise than the rest combined. They seem to be guys in ‘craft beer’. They talk loudly about why their point of view is the one we should adopt, and their beer is the best in the world. They all but shout “I AM AN ALPHA MALE” at you. They all seem to smoke too, meaning they can’t taste beer very well. Ha! Look at me generalising and encouraging prejudice.

Still, women brewed for hundreds of years before these know-it-all dudebro morons arrived, and will likely be better tasters, as women generally are.

My point is that beer can seem like one big, lovely family. But look more closely and you see how much there is to be done. Just because women are mistreated or misrepresented to a lesser degree than in another industry/period in time/part of the world, doesn’t mean that mistreatment does not exist in our industry or is okay.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

April 1, 2017 by Beer & Brew

The Beers Are Taking Over

It’s a brilliant time to be a beery Brightonian. The Pond opened on Wednesday and is offering Beavertown’s George, Bierhaus is imminent and looking like a fortress of boozy goodness, and, if you can contemplate more excitement, it is a sunny Tap Takeover weekend!

I was lucky enough to be in on the Meet the Brewer tasting and launch tour on Friday. Laines Pub Co offered wonderful hospitality and there is no questioning the passion of the brewers, who this year came from as far afield as Croatia and Barcelona.

It was the Croatian brewer Garden’s Citrus IPA that stood out in the tasting, both for appearance (it actually had a head!) and taste. It was smooth and rich without the saliva-sapping bitterness all too common with this style. The 7.2% strength adds depth and character and it has a balance and subtlety that so many others lack.

The sours on show were also good. Three of the six we tried were kettle or aged sours – more on that later.

The canning line at The North Laine is fun and a nice personal touch. I’m gutted my Sow by White Hag was picked up by someone else; I hope they enjoy it all the same.

I’ve heard a lot of people saying that the venues are places they would never normally visit for a beer, as if that were a bad thing. What would be the point in showcasing beers in the places you went all the time? You go there for good beer already. I loved visiting pubs I hadn’t been in for ten years.

Standouts on the tour included Fourpure’s Vanilla Porter in The Mash Tun, a silky smooth but hugely potent number; everything on offer from Fierce at The White Rabbit; Wylam’s Black Wit at Dead Wax Social was intriguingly bonkers; and the Fermentation Radio and Two Tribes NEIPA collaboration at The Mesmerist was hugely enjoyable.

It would be uncharacteristic for my blog to be a celebration of how great everything was, and so we reach the inevitable ‘but…’

As mentioned above, three of the six beers at the tasting were sours. Not wholly surprising as I wrote in November that they would explode in popularity this year. But why must the scene chase trends like this? Most recently we’ve had NEIPAs, before that it was Stouts that could sozzle an elephant. The modern IPA is still going strong with hops masking a cornucopia of dull-as-you-like beers, though most at the Tap Takeover are fine examples.

Each time a brewer tells me they want to open people’s eyes to sour beer my eyelids get heavier. My eyes were opened by Cantillon, Boon and Oude Beersel more than a decade ago. Since then I have visited Berlin to find their Berlinerweisse, then Leipzig to try authentic Gose. Years ago Siren released Calypso and Tool were producing great sours.

Rather than opening our eyes brewers seem to be behind the pace at times, only brewing new styles having been introduced to them later than a lot of us.

Creating fads is the quickest way to disenfranchise genuine fans while getting lost in the crowd. I thoroughly respect those who have brought Pilsners, mid-strength Stouts, Brown Ales and Bitters. So hats off to Five Points, Moor Beer, Garden, and Gypsy Hill for not telling me what I should be drinking, and for bringing beers that I like drinking. ‘Classic’ is not a dirty word, and classic styles are not easy to make or boring to drink.

The Tap Takeover is amazing and creates an unbelievable atmosphere around town – there are so many brilliant beers and lovely people to try them with. The sun is shining and this bonanza of brew is a wonderful excuse for you to visit a pub, discover great beer, and enjoy Brighton in all its glory.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

March 17, 2017 by Beer & Brew

Don’t Kid Yourself, Dog

I’ve put my finger on my issue with the craft beer movement: it can be insular and self-revering, and lacks the honesty and character we have been led to expect. This came into sharp focus when I was listening to some of the industry’s big names speak and debate at PUB17 recently.

There are incredible modern beers, beers that will be regarded for years to come and breweries that get better all the time. Boundaries are being pushed and (generally) standards are rising accordingly. However, I haven’t seen such blatant and unjust arrogance since I worked among gaggles of BMW-driving sales executives with six pints inside them.

Camden Town’s Founder – who claims to produce ‘craft beer’ while owned by AB-InBev, who brew for them in Belgium – said he makes the best lager in the UK. There were three better in the same room! If this lager was the UK entry in an international competition, I would tell people I was German. This brewery’s lager is irrelevant compared to the likes of Wild Beer Co, Cloudwater or Tiny Rebel, let alone the best among them.

BrewDog’s panellist looked to introduce a bit of anarchy with an impassioned and sweary diatribe about educating the consumer. As a consumer myself, I didn’t rally to the cry of ‘Peroni’s sh*t, drink this’. Not because I didn’t agree, but because I took issue with the fervent love he had for his own and other’s sometimes good, sometimes middling, sometimes bad products – all of them less than five years old.

I am angered by an advertising campaign by Meantime who – with a complete lack of self-awareness – claim to have started ‘proper beer’ in 1999. This isn’t tongue-in-cheek – they are serious. They are also bland and AB-InBevSABMiller-GloboBrew-owned.

It seems that some people have forgotten anything happened before they used mummy and daddy’s money to open a brewery in a railway arch and tried to mimic Stone IPA. Forget the US from the mid-seventies. Forget anything Belgium or the Czech Republic have ever done. Germany? What have they ever done for beer? It all started in Greenwich, 1999 – before that there was nothing. Real ale isn’t a craft. Lambic brewing isn’t proper. Blending is childsplay. Aging doesn’t take patience and skill.

If you want the best beers the world has ever seen, made by true craftspeople, then the choices are Camden Hells, Meantime Lager, or Brewdog Jackhammer. Seriously? There is pride in what you do and there is turning the entire scene into a pastiche of itself.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

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